Lizzie Lives Makai
Shaka Kai's Cruising Guide to the Exumas
Whether you’re charting your own course or just going along for the ride, the Bahamas offers a staggering variety of experiences and islands. Made up of over 700 islands and cays, more than 300 are in the Exumas. Located just past the tongue of the ocean, the Exumas have everything from swimming pigs and Hollywood landmarks to fine dining and shark encounters. Our journey truly began in Shipping Channel and Highbourne cays, where we looked for nurse shark breeding grounds and ate lunch at Xuma’s. While there were no nurse sharks to be found, the shallow saltwater creek is a great place to look for shells, shorebirds, and small stingrays; or to simply splash around. After, we made the leap all the way south to Chat n Chill in time for their weekly pork roast and swam with the lemon sharks that occasionally investigate the beach, looking for conch scraps. With full bellies we headed to our next home base in Grand Isle. This secluded resort is very peaceful and offers a par-72 seaside golf course for those who like to get their strokes in. With its own pool and beach, there is something for everyone to enjoy; as well as two restaurants. The next day we caught a taxi ride with Queenie (the best on the island!) and went into George Town for lunch at Peace and Plenty. From there, Queen directed us to Hopper Bay to swim with turtles. Tourists often feed these turtles lettuce, so be prepared for a magical experience of multiple curious turtles swimming up to you! We also visited the Jacque Cousteau mystery cave (in the same basin as Chat N Chill); an underwater cave that connects the Atlantic and the bay on the other side of the island. It is an easy snorkel, and you can feel the cold currents coming in from the other side! There are all kinds of fish swimming near the mouth of the cave, just waiting to catch smaller prey that gets caught in the current. Enthusiastic snorkelers should also check out Rolle Reef for stunning coral specimens and high fish diversity. After leaving Grand Isle, we found ourselves exploring the small cays in search of reefs, iguanas, and stromatolites on the way back to Staniel Cay. First, we headed to Leaf Cay to see one of the famous iguana beaches. These endangered rock iguanas really enjoy their grapes but be sure to respect their tails! After, we tracked down the ancient stromatolites (think of them as an evolutionary prototype of coral reefs) and collected shells from the nearby beach. Another great snorkeling spot was the Mermaid Playing a Piano underwater statue near David Copperfield’s private island. The current here can be challenging, so fins are necessary. There are also numerous plane wrecks in the area that provide quick, interesting snorkel sites or a great spearfishing stop. Once you’re ready for a break, stop at Little Farmer’s Cay and see JR for hand carved wooden artwork. Finally, we headed up to Staniel Cay for the remainder of the trip. Staniel Cay and the surrounding adventures requires a few days to fully appreciate all it has to offer. Likely the most notable is Pig Beach, where you can get in the water and swim with the local pigs. Be sure to bring some veggies! These guys are very friendly and love it when you bring them some snacks. For the more adventurous, Compass Cay marina has a host of resident nurse sharks that hang around for the feedings and are with attention from humans. Coral Reef lovers will definitely want to check out the natural wonders of Exuma Land and Sea Park, where there are countless reefs to snorkel and even land trails for those that like to look at local wildlife. If you are a birdwatcher, this is a great place to watch for shorebirds and a few inland species. This is only a precursory overview of things to do in the Exuma islands of the Bahamas, and is by no means a complete guide. If you are plotting your own course, consult experienced mariners and refer to official charts and professionally published cruising guides for specified information on navigation, ports, interesting stops, and more. We at Shaka Kai love the ocean, but the most important lesson to be learned is respect for the natural wonders of our world.
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Fish Fraud
Seeing the words fish fraud probably inspires some pretty comedic imagery in your mind, but believe it or not, it’s real. Restaurants across the world will serve one type of fish and call it another. So, while it is not fish in pinstripe suites defrauding other fish, this poses serious problems in the fishing industry. It may seem completely innocent to advertise snappers and serve tilapia; only a quick buck made and no harm done to a customer that can’t taste the difference. However, fish fraud isn’t always that simple. Ever heard of a slimehead? Probably not, given the extremely unappetizing name. How about orange roughy? This species might have two common names, but are all part of the same overfished group. Orange roughy takes almost twenty years to reach reproductive maturity but is being bottom trawled (a destructive fishing practice that drags a net across the sea floor) at an alarming rate. Still not ringing any bells? Try the Chilean sea bass. A.K.A the Patagonian toothfish (also not a very appetizing name). In short, you should always take a moment to ask where your seafood is coming from. There are a multitude of helpful resources out there to help identify which countries use sustainable or non-destructive fishing practices. My personal favorite is the Monterey Bay Seafood Watch. All you have to do is type in the fish you plan on eating, and the Seafood Watch provides a list of countries that you should and should not eat fish from. It also provides a list of other known names, that way you can’t be duped by convoluted name changes. Many people will also try to tell you that farm-raised fish are the best alternative to wild caught, but that’s not the case either. It’s all about the practice that is used- for both wild caught and farm raised. While farm raising may mean less boats out on the high seas, therefore reducing pressure, fish farms require large amounts of resources and space to be effective. A few countries in southeastern Asia currently struggle with the shrimp farming industry, which requires the destruction of mangroves (a crucial ecological habitat for coral reefs and coastal habitats) to build the pens. Additionally, guess where the fish food comes from? That’s right, fishmeal often comes from wild caught fishes and, depending on the species being raised, can have a ratio as high as 4:1 for feed to fish. Salmon, on the other hand, is considered the most efficiently famed fish; and still tastes good even if it is not wild caught. Circling back to our tilapia and snapper example, this kind of fraud is a sneaky way to overcharge a customer, but also puts pressure on certain desirable species and can be used to fudge conservation statistics (the issues with fisheries data fraud could be its own post). It also makes some unsustainable fish farming habits more desirable. Some people are skilled enough to taste the difference between different types of fish. So, to all my seasoned seafood eaters and lifelong fishermen, you have incredible skill that scientists need! (It’s true: real studies have tried using people that can taste the difference to gather data from restaurants) Fish fraud comes in many forms, but this is no reason to go on a seafood strike. Be sure to use your resources, and your head, to make smart decisions on your next meal choice.
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